Monday, October 28, 2024

End of An Era

I always feel we didn't appreciate Roganic enough for what the restaurant and the team brought to the local dining scene since their opening  in 2019, breathing a new life into our old concept of "fine dining" with a more casual, no-nonsense approach that's quite unique at that time and has since become more a commonplace. 

A few of us went there for lunch earlier this month when words broke about their pending move to a new location after 5 years, and they conclude this chapter with the "Best of Roganic" menu with some of their classic dishes as farewell of sorts. Execution has always been consistent but this time, a few dishes stood out. The simple amuse-bouche bite of pea tartlet and smoked cod roe emulsion combined well using ingredients from local farm and the caviar on top brought great umami balance. 

Then there's the Parker House Roll, which along with Soda Bread has become some of my favorite bread in town. The cultured butter that served on the side just made this even better. 

The unconventional "grilled salad" with local greens slightly charred by embers and served with Corra Linn cheese course, toasted seeds and truffles for the nice rustic flavor. Chicken thigh (using local Three Yellow Chicken) was done so tender with the crispy skin, and that worked well with the sweet corns on the side and the rich jus prepared using the bones roasted and fat from the chicken. 

Of course, to end the meal there's the signature caramelized apple tart with vanilla icecream, plus the pine doughnut dusted with Douglas Fir pine sugar, bringing a hint of British autumn flavor to the Hong Kong Mid-Summer. 

A mix of wines and non-alcoholic drinks were served to pair with our food, including my favorite of Pineapple-Carrot-Ginger juice with the perfect balance of flavor that went well with something vegetal, like the grilled salad. Felt that hint of sweetness from the juice just added something to the dish. 

The lunch was much enjoyable except it's sad to know that they intended to "retire" some of those old memorable dishes with something different when they re-open. That said, I can only imagine with the closure of their current venue and move to somewhere new, it could mean they are up their game, and hopefully one thing would remain - their stride to bring something new on the table with the exact same approach that made them an unique force.

What an end to an era and I can't wait for their re-opening, and hopefully that will happen real soon. 

More photos here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/g4gary/albums/72177720320142354/ 

(Meal was by invitation)

When? August 14 2024
Where? Roganic, Sino Plaza, 255 Gloucester Rd, Causeway Bay
Menu Highlights? Salad grilled over embers with Corra Linn, elderflower and toasted seeds
Drinks?
Exton Park Simon Rogan Rose NV
2021 Chateau Brown Pessac-Leognan
2022 Maco de Bartoli Grappoli del Grillo Riserva Sicilia
2022 Weingut Max Ferd. Richter Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese
Web: www.roganic.com.hk


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