Coming here has always been a pleasure, even more so when we were here for a celebration of sorts a couple weeks back. We felt it’s long overdue for an occasional splurge at our favorite restaurant in town so we made our way to Caprice at the Four Seasons for dinner on a Friday evening.
We left everything to Chef Guillaume and ended up completely stuffed, like we often do eating here. After the familiar sight of the amuse-bouche trio (liver mousse tartlet, balik salmon and curry in a mini pita), we started with the chilled starter course of Alaskan King Crab paired with the seasonal white truffles on top. Another white truffle dish followed – this time the gently roasted Brittany Blue Lobster with mushroom duzelles and a creamy yellow wine sauce accented with a touch of acidity. Perfectly done with the delicate piece of lobster working well with the sauce plus the good aroma from the white truffles shaved on top by chef at our table. Best dish of the night I reckon.
More to follow of course. I felt the off-menu “Hare Soup” was the perfect comfort dish in the winter, with the intense stew-like soup topped with mushrooms and white truffles. Rustic yet well-balanced. Then it’s the intermezzo course of a thin crisp served with blue cheese and foie gras. The fish course was another dish I particularly enjoyed, with the whole piece of red mullet carefully filleted, lightly cooked on a pan and served with Amandine potato, shaved champignons, tomatoes and the fragrant saffron sauce dusted with dried seaweed. It's beautifully plated and I love the complexity of different flavors in play here.
The whole Challans duck was presented to us in a casserole filled with smoke, before it’s carved and served in individual portions. Execution is spot on, with the slightly crispy skin glazed with Sauternes honey giving it a sweet and nutty flavor, plus the apricots, baby carrots and carrot puree on the side providing the extra sweetness. It’s only appropriate to pair the dish with a Sauternes, and only appropriate with the King of Sauternes, the Chateau d’Yquem in 2002 vintage served in 6L Imperial bottle. Amber color, hit right in the face with the honey aromas with some pears and vanilla. Love that memorable balance of sweetness and acidity and the long and pleasing after-taste. And we think we were helping their sommelier Victor out in his daily workout of bringing this bottle around all evening long.
We saved room for cheese with the long wooden board with a dozen of choices were presented and introduced. Went for a few new types but our favorite was still the 40-month-aged Comte. After the pre-dessert of the soft butter cake with mango, another well-executed dish appeared, this time the almond souffle with a quenelle of vanilla ice-cream. We finished our meal with the full array of petit fours, and my favorite was the piece of apple tart, which we didn’t manage to have at the night and left it as breakfast the next morning. Best pastry base even kept in the refrigerator overnight.
A few other glasses of wines were poured apart from the legendary Sauternes. A lovely champagne to start from a biodynamic-practicing grower, mild white flower aroma, some pear, mild citrus acidity and toasted bread. The white blend from Switzerland was an interesting one, made using indigenous grape varietals (predominantly Rausling). Biodynamically made, dry, subtle nose, hint of apricot and some minerality.
A lovely night out at a place we always felt welcomed.
More photos here: www.flickr.com/photos/g4gary/albums/72157716512479433
When? October 16 2020
Where? Caprice at Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance Street, Central
Menu Highlights? Red Mullet, Amandine Potato, Saffron Sauce
Drinks?
Champagne Fleury Fleur de l'Europe Extra Brut NV
2018 KLUS 177 Le Blanc AOC Baselland, Switzerland
2002 Chateau d'Yquem, Sauternes
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