I admit I did find it a little surreal when I saw Chef Manav in his new chef outfit at a new restaurant. His departure from his last gig a few months back certainly took many by surprise, but his new restaurant, Leela, on the other side of the harbor, is promising and represents quite a change in culinary direction and style.
“It’s not a Version 2.0 but a Leela 1.0,” he assured us when he came to greet us before our meal began, sidestepping any suggestion of comparing the present with the past. He went on to explain at Leela, he tries to expand the scope of his cooking geographically and style, exploring the finer fishes that went back centuries in the long Indian history. And yes we were treated quite a feast with many unique courses using spices and herbs that I learned for the first time.
Before we began, many of the spices and herbs used in Chef Manav’s dishes were presented a nicely arranged tray with stainless steel bowls – like a fancy Masala Dani – and he carefully introduced every one of them to us. Then it was a series of appetizers. The Lucknow Tokri Chaat was a clear winner, in the somewhat familiar presentation of the edible basket (made with deep-fried grated potatoes) with scores of ingredient on top with chutney and pomegranate seeds garnishes. Almost like a salad with complex flavors and a hint of salivating sweetness. Chicken Baida Roti was another well-executed dish, with the braised chicken and sauce wrapped in the crispy pan-fried roti with mint sauce served on the side. There’s no better way to enjoy it by picking up with hands and lick your fingers cleaned afterwards.
I didn’t expect less for the Tandoori dishes and he delivered with flying colors. The Chicken Tikka looked straight forward but super succulent and juicy, seasoned with a touch of black peppers on top. Then there’s the Badami Guinea Fowl prepared with the bird imported from France, brined and prepared in the traditional Tandoor grill, smothering with sauce and served. Not sure about the “authenticity” of the “Uni Butter Roghani Naan”, but I like the effort of combining one of the local favorite ingredients (Hokkaido sea urchins) with traditional cooking for something totally new. (we were also served the more conventional Peshwari Naan which were good as well) And we also love the Tandoori Beef Chop, grilled and served bone-in with sauce on the side.
More food came our way, many more with dishes soon filled up our long table with the curries and biryani. The Biryani was great, baked with the whole bone-in oxtail in the center and flambeed with a blowtorch, then carefully mixed and served at tableside for us. I thought it’s hard to be impressed with a common fish of butter chicken but it was memorable. It’s just the perfect flavor with a touch of smokiness and spicy kick.
The Pork Pandi Curry was the spiciest of the lot, but well balanced with a touch of kachumpuli, a vinegar-like extract of the garcinia cambogia fruit. Another interesting dish was the Chakundar Oxtail Gosht, with the tender meat braised in the sauce with beetroot, giving it a nice red color (and looked spicier than it was). I wish I had room to try some of the side dishes but I only managed a small bite (and took some of the rest home). I like the Tadka Lily Bulb & Snow Peas, again an Cantonese-inspired dish but with done with Tadka spices. It’s almost as spicy as the Pork Pandi Curry but I love that kick.
Our dessert was the well-presented almond kulfi followed by the traditional masala chai. Yes there were an insane amount of food but very much enjoyable with great company too. What a nice outing on an unusually warm winter evening.
(Dinner was by invitation)
When? November 30 2023
Where? Leela, Shop 301-310, Lee Garden Three. 1 Sunning Road Causeway Bay, Hong Kong
Menu Highlights? Smoked Butter Chicken
Drinks? 2019 Dominique Piron Chenas Quartz
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