Feuille

Feuille is not a vegetarian restaurant – I felt I had to get this out of the way. Despite the name and being marketed as a “vegetal” restaurant concept, turned out there were much more to it.

We ate there a few weeks ago after hearing largely positive comments about this new restaurant by Parisian chef David Toutain, and the restaurant team was kind enough to extend an invitation for us to check it out. Season and nature are the main theme, and that included everything from its name to the wooden color theme of the interior to seasonal produce featured prominently in the tasting menu. The menu looked daunting at first with 15 “items” listed, but with everything served in tasting portion over the four “acts”, turned out it was just right. 

We started with “Grains and Seeds” which consists of four bite-sized canapes served in quick succession. The salivating cup of cold soup of kombucha with added citrus oil and toasted chia seeds was beautifully presented with refreshing flavor, followed by the tartlet of mulberry espuma garnished with stellaire in lovely pastel color. I was amazed by the clean flavor from the simple combination of sweet potatoes, quinoa and thyme, with the crispy sweet potato skin presented like a taco shell with sweet potato puree and quinoa on top. Same with a piece of shiso-leaf presented as tempura, topped with herbs and sea grapes with pure vegetal flavor. Finishing off the appetizer courses was the egg custard with sweet corn served in an egg shell with cumin and a thin piece of breadstick on top – it’s said to be a variation of Chef Toutain’s signature dish in his Paris restaurant and it was good. 

I found myself munching on the bread served with a dill pil-pil espuma. There’s a hint of sweetness on the crust with pumpkin and sunflower seeds, working perfectly well with the sauce on the side made with broth from the turbot that was served later in the evening. The clam dish was served two ways, first with local clams and green peas served in almond milk, then pea puree served in a clam shell topped with almond milk jelly and pine foam. Same set of ingredients, but totally different styles and textures which I found interesting. 

Before the start of the meal, we were offered the option of adding the additional course of either “Onion-Chicken-Caviar” and “White Asparagus-Model-Huangjiu”. We decided to do one of each to share. While we enjoyed them both, but the white asparagus dish edged out as the winner, with the flavorful yellow wine sabayon matched well with the seasonal white asparagus and morel mushrooms. Turbot fillet was slow-cooked and served with watercress mousseline and poached winter melon – love how the chef integrated common local ingredients into his cooking (watercress and winter melon were commonly found in local markets come summer season). Spiny lobster was another course served two way, first with a piece of grilled lobster meat served on top of a smoky bowl, then it’s the lobster quenelle stuffed in zucchini flower and served in a light zucchini and mint foam. Again, same set of ingredients in different presentations and textures. 

What listed on the menu as “Beetroot-Red Meat-Hibiscus” was pigeon. But it’s the bright beetroot in the dish that caught our attention and praises, with the beetroot puree and gnocchi served alongside the perfectly cooked pigeon breast and leg, followed by a beetroot “mille-feuille” and a small cup of beetroot “consommé” with smoked pigeon fat. I often thought beetroot flavor was too overwhelming to my liking but this time I enjoyed this a lot. 

Continuing with the sweeter side of the menu with five more items served in progression of sweetness, starting with the cantaloupe sorbet with saffron and basil oil as palate cleanser with a touch of vinegar acidity, followed by the tomato presented in three different forms with strawberry coulis, longan meringue on top and flower petal garnishes. Lastly was a trio of petit fours with my favorite being the last course of cauliflower foam served with coconut ice-cream – I wouldn’t consider cauliflower as dessert materials but it turned out to be very nice with well balanced flavor. Another unusual combo came in the form of mango puree and miso served in a meringue shell - the contrast of the savory umami miso flavor and the sweet mango was surprisingly enjoyable.

I had my mind on a glass of muscadet which I thought would be perfect in this weather and with a light menu, and Zsolt their sommelier validated my thought with a bottle he recommended from the menu. Deep straw color, loaded with minerals, white flower aroma, ripe lemon and green apple on the palate and balanced with mouth-watering acidity. This is a seriously decent summer wine. 

Overall, I love the unique menu with creative use of common, seasonal ingredients and great execution. Would love to come back as season and menu changes. 

When? June 16 2023
Where? Feuille, 5/F The Wellington, 198 Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong
Menu Highlights? Beetroot, Pigeon, Hibiscus
Drink? 2020 Domaine de Bellevue “Gaia” Muscadet
Web: zshospitality.com/brand/feuille/