There’s a sense of déjà vu when I dropped by Zest for a special lunch hosted by Chef Konishi with guest chef Hironori Maeda from Mizumi in Wynn Macau back in early June. I just came back from a week-long holiday in Kyoto and Osaka, but with this meal I felt like I was back in Japan once again.
This limited edition 4-hands menu was the second of the series with the first one held in Macau at Chef Maeda’s restaurant at Wynn back in January. For both times the two chefs collaborated and presented the menu featuring some of the signature dishes from both chefs prepared with the seasonal Japanese ingredients at that time.
We got off a refreshing start with Konishi-san’s signature flower crab dish with onion mousse, white asparagus and caviar. The subtle umami flavor worked well with the sweetness from the onions, accented by the caviar and ponzu sauce. There’s no other ingredients better defined “Summer of Kyoto” than Hamo (pike conger eel) and Kamo Nasu (the round eggplant from Kyoto) so no surprise Kyoto-trained chef Maeda served both as a suimono course with dashi.
Moving on to a few seafood dishes prepared by Chef Konishi, the large piece of Hotate (scallops) and Ezo Awabi was served in a shell with slash of sweet soy sauce. I love the hint of smoky grilled flavor with Chinese yellow wine marinate. The Norway Langoustine was more of a western style, served with pineapple tomato “salsa” with bright and refreshing flavor and color.
“Just like sushi but not quite,” said Chef Maeda as he dropped by our table to introduce the next course to us. In the deep dish was a piece of grilled Akamutsu (rosy seabass) topped with crispy rice “cake” plus nori and wasabi garnishes. Nothing like the traditional nigiri sushi of course, but it’s a well-executed fish course. The sauce was on the sweet side, reminded me of katsu sauce somehow and worked well with the fatty and delicate fish fillet.
Duck was served as our main course. Local rice duck was roasted with crispy skin and served with loquat, orange, parsnip and the jus reduction. That’s followed by a bowl of somen noodles with sansho flower, manganji toragashi and minced wagyu. Reminded me of Sichuan dandan noodles but then with heavy Japanese influence.
Traditional Kaiseki meal usually ended with a bowl of Koicha (thick matcha tea), but this time, we were served a variation of that in the form of ice-cream. And on the side was Warabi Mochi, served Chimaki style. Both were super tasty.
More photos here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/g4gary/albums/72177720317773915/
When? June 6 2024
Where? Zest by Konishi, Level 28 and 29, 18 On Lan Street, Central
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