Meeting with friends over lunch at Ando is always a pleasure, and the afternoon became even more pleasurable with glasses filled with Krug as we were seated and settled in the little private room at the back of the restaurant with a good view of the kitchen.
We went for the longer of the two tasting menu choices offered during lunch service, and Chef Agustin graced us with a few off-menu dishes along the way. We couldn't have asked for a more spectacular display of amuse-bouche to start, with 3 bite-sized nibbles (beef tartare on squid ink tapioca crisp, shortbread with tomatoes and Shima-ebi on cracker) paired with 3 different kinds of caviar from 3 purveyors (Nomad ossetra, Plantin Kaviari Kristal and Petrossian malossol)
I felt our first course of lobster was a tad richer than the previous version, with the poached Brittany lobster tail displayed with all the bright colors and flavor of baby bell peppers and piquillo peppers with plankton and edible flower garnishes. That's the taste of a beautiful summer day right there captured in a single dish. Our earlier "caviar tasting course" led to the next one of "uni tasting", with two different kinds of sea urchins presented side by side. First was the murasaki uni served on top of a creamy sauce steeped with shiokombu and peas, followed by bafun uni served on a rice cracker. I especially like the latter with the perfectly creamy texture and clean flavor.
The cured fish course was served like a platter with a flowery presentation. I particularly liked the one with kinmedai paired with vinaigrette, dash of passionfruit juice and sansho leaf on top with good balance of acidity and sweetness. Then it was the bread course and the pan-seared suzuki (seabass) done with the skin crisped and spooned with lily bulb and vin jaune-dashi sauce.
Wagyu was our only meat course this time, done asado style on a grill then served with stuffed piquillo pepper on the side, and to end, the soupy caldoso with chistorra (Spanish smoked sausages) and Japanese snow crabs which are in season.
For desserts, first it was the yogurt sorbet with honey and lime espuma served on a black sesame sable. I love the sharp acidity which was well suited for this weather. Then it was a fine display of all mignardises lined up on a plate like precious gemstones for us to choose - of course I had to request for one of each (and finished them in no time).
Other than the champagne to start, we ordered a bottle of orange wine recommended by Carlito their somm. The Austrian sauvignon blanc showed nice floral aroma with slight grassiness, a hint of oxidative notes from its age of 9 years, full-bodied and lots of minerality. A well-made natural wine that went well with the richer seafood courses.
More photos here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/g4gary/albums/72177720300703163
When? July 9 2022
Where? Ando, 1F, Somptueux Central, 52 Wellington Street, Central
Menu Highlights? ALL of them!
Drinks?
Champagne Krug Grande Cuvee 169eme Edition Brut
2013 Hannes Sabathi Amphora Sauvignon Blanc
Web: andohk.com
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