Caprice in the Summer

One subtle change to the weekend lunch menu at Caprice recently was the expansion of their set menu with additional choices (adding a separate soup section after the appetizers), and a new 4-course option for those wanting a more substantial meal than the usual 2-course or 3-course menu.

In our standard, it's a bit of a hiatus since we were last here (two months ago - we have been busy), but we made amends by setting aside the Saturday afternoon on the last weekend of July to check out their summer menu. Just when I thought many people were away on holiday, the place was packed as usual – luckily we made our booking a month in advance.

Given the summer heat wave, there’s no surprise that a number of chilled dishes were on the menu (all but two in the appetizer and soup sections) and we decided to stick with three courses this time despite the new option for a longer meal (or so we planned).

At manager Sebastian’s recommendation, we went for the Vichyssoise-style chilled soup to start, after the colorful amuse-bouche with shrimp, ricotta espuma and pickled vegetables and olives on top. Round of jelly made with crab consommé topped with picked crab meats, micro-herbs and dots of coral mayonnaise was served in a deep dish with cold potato and leek soup poured in as it’s served at the table. Felt like I was in the Brittany coast already just by tasting this refreshing dish loaded with umami flavors.

We were then given a surprise with a comped dish of bouillabaisse loaded with fresh seafood in a light but aromatic broth. I especially liked the squid cooked super tender and the silky and delicate rockfish fillet, plus the hint of sweetness from the root vegetables. It’s rather uncharacteristic of me ordering lamb for main course, but that’s the dish I was most curious about out of the choices available. It’s surprisingly light, with the lamb leg rolled and slow-cooked, and served with a light but creamy Blanquette-style sauce and again, lots of seasonal vegetables. Once again, I thought the dish was well-suited for this season with a rich but not overbearingly heavy taste and the meat was perfectly-cooked and delicious.

The dessert was a small piece of chocolate mi-cuit cake and vanilla icecream on the side. Nothing wrong with it with the classic chocolate flavor and the soft, lava-like center – but let's just say I missed the gorgeous presentation of Chef Nicolas' creation (he's probably on his honeymoon at the time of our visit)

Great to have spent a delightful mid-summer weekend afternoon at our favorite place, just as the storm was looming outside.

More photos at https://www.flickr.com/photos/g4gary/albums/72157671665458446

When? July 30 2016
Where? Caprice, Level 6, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance Street, Hong Kong
Menu Highlights?
Rockfish Bouillabaisse Consomme, Saffron Vegetables
Milk-fed Lamb Leg in Blanquette Style, Seasonal Vegetables
Drinks?
Champagne Egly-Ouriet Brut Tradition Grand Cru NV
2011 Domaine d'Aupilhac Languedoc "Les Cocalieres" Rouge
Web: www.fourseasons.com/hongkong/dining/restaurants/caprice