Thursday, April 8, 2021

Unlimited Servings

We caught up with our friends A and C over Sunday Brunch at Henry of Rosewood Hong Kong a few weekends ago, as we knew they were always up for good food. I enjoyed my last visit when this Texas-inspired smokehouse first opened more than a year ago and I would be interested to see how Chef Nate and his team evolves over what’s been a challenging times in restaurant industry in the past year. 

I must admit I love the day-time vibe of the restaurant more so than in the evenings, with ample natural light beaming in through the windows giving the space much relaxed atmosphere. I love their wood and leather upholstered booth seating too – posh, stylish yet relaxing. We were sold on their Sunday Brunch menu the moment the phrase “Unlimited Mains” was uttered – a no-brainer decision really with us 4 hungry souls – and Chef Nate generously added a few more dishes for us as well. “Just something extra as nibbles”, he said – yeah right. 

The appetizers were easily a meal on its own, with four excellent dishes served in huge portion. Their signature beef tartare was easily my favorite, with the beef in excellent texture, meaty and well marinated, dotted with Cornichons and capers with an egg yolk on top. We got an upgrade to the regular Burrata dish, with Hokkaido uni and Japanese fruit tomatoes served on top. The umami flavor from the sea urchins did work perfectly well with the creamy burrata drizzled with basil oil. 

Then there were the main courses. The beef briskets were the reason I wanted to come here to eat and they didn’t disappoint, with nice sweet and smoky bark and the tender meat inside. My only complaint was I wish the meat was even fattier. The pork belly was super tasty too – the piece from Snake River Farm was fatty, grilled to perfect tenderness and well smothered with the house-made barbecue sauce on top. The namesake Fried Chicken did remind me of the good old Southern classic version, well-brined, well-battered with buttermilk and served with the creamy gravy. 

We got an extra piece of steak which chef described as “his personal favorite”, which is the grass-fed Ribeye from the Texas ranch 44 Farms and went through a period of dry-aging in the on-premise facility. The meat itself was perfectly grilled with a nice-charred crust, and inside it was juicy and tender. Then there's the melted bone marrow served on top for the extra flavor. The taste wasn’t as meaty as I would have expected from a long dry-aged piece, but then there’s no those hint of funky bleu cheese flavor which sometimes came along with an over-aged steak. The leftover bits made good sandwiches for my lunch the next day. Pasta was not something I would normally order at a steakhouse, but the red prawn tagliatelle was a surprise, with a large piece of Spanish prawn served with the pasta dressed in the rich and delicious sauce made of the prawn head.

I didn’t know how we managed to finish all the meats AND most of the sides at the table, but we just couldn’t stop. Both the biscuit and cornbread were good, and so was the charred corn with a nice kick from the Harissa sauce. I normally wouldn’t fancy baked beans, but I kept reaching out for this with plenty of bacon bits added in. We finished with a few desserts – the banana pudding covered with vanilla custard was soft and surprisingly refreshing, and the burnt buttermilk pudding with pickled rhubarb and champagne foam combined well with the creaminess and acidity from the ingredients. 

Their wine menu came with an interesting collection of New World selections, same available in carafe portion poured from a magnum bottle. With all the heavy meat it could never go wrong with a big Chilean red. Full-bodied, loaded with red fruits for an easy sip. 

We were joking that chef Nate was trying to kill us for sending us so much food, and if he did succeed, let’s just say we all would have died happy and satisfied.  

When? March 21 2021
Where? Henry, Rosewood Hong Kong, Victoria Dockside, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon
Menu Highlights? 44 Farms USDA Prime Black Angus Ribeye
Drink? 2014 Errazuriz Max Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon, Aconcagua Valley, Chile
Web: www.rosewoodhotels.com/en/hong-kong/dining/henry


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