I managed to make a second booking for lunch at The Chairman when they opened up for reservation so this time we went with a slightly bigger group on a Sunday afternoon. I felt I pretty much went through most of the dishes in their re-designed menu in my previous visits so this time it's pretty much a highlight of everything that I liked.
Normally I am not a fan of pig intestine but the one here was outstanding with the perfect bouncy texture with layers of fatty lining, and inside it's stuffed with pickled radish and soybean paste which worked well with the hint of gaminess flavor. And no complaint whatsoever with the marinated squid and thick-cut char-siu, both mainstay and signature dishes since the old days, and both were outstanding this time.
After much deliberation before our lunch we stayed with the classic steamed flower crab with Shaoxing wine. The crab is slightly smaller than usual but then they gave us two so that worked out just fine, sort of. That also meant we were served a bigger portion of the delicious sauce and rice noodles. I love the "hot and sour" beef quartet we had a few months ago so I asked for a repeat this time. Honeycomb tripes, short rib, fatty beef slices and tendon sauteed til tender with the stew cooked with pickled sichuan peppers, garlic and vegeables for the complex flavor profile and just the right kick of spiciness that made you yearn for more after each bite.
We finally got the whole goose with the 8 of us this time (unlike last time when they gave us half for our table of 6). Juicy, fatty, tender, rich... everything was perfect with this one. The sauteed choisum with XO sauce sounds ordinary but I love the right crunchy texture with the stalks. As the finale savory course, I asked for something from the old menu, with beef and chopped pork liver sausage rice cooked and served in the casserole with egg. I could live with (much) more liver sausages in the mix and maybe a couple more eggs cracked in too (2 more pairs of liver sausages and at least 2 more eggs for the correct portion, to be exact), but then the rice itself was nicely cooked with parts of burnt crust for everyone.
Went with the theme of old wines by coincidence with a pair from the 1983 vintage. Lead in with the bottle from Chateau Cos d'Estournel, slightly faded with a medium body finish, plenty of red fruits with some secondary flavor of wood and a smooth tannin. The Haut Brion was richer, medium full-bodied, more black fruits than red, some earthiness and forest on the palate. Both kept in excellent condition to show the true character of the vintage, I reckon. And before that, a bottle of champagne - not half as old, but showing some nice ripe lemon, toast and brioche on the palate.
Execution is still solid and it's a very enjoyable meal overall with good food, wine and company, but I probably would hold off for them to come up with more dishes before I have the urge to return, maybe in a few months' time hopefully? Well, that's when I managed to book my next table anyway.
More photos: https://www.flickr.com/photos/g4gary/albums/72177720306388015
When? February 19 2023
Where? The Chairman, 3/F, The Wellington, 198 Wellington Street, Central.
Menu Highlights? Stuffed Layered Pig's Intestines Grilled with Fermented Soy Paste, Mixed with Spicy Preserved Radish 麵醬燒豬套腸拌辣椒菜甫
Drinks?
Champagne Egly Ouriet Brut Grand Cru NV
1983 Chateau Cos d'Estournel, Saint Estephe
1983 Chateau Haut Brion, Graves
Web: www.thechairmangroup.com
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