Tuesday, December 18, 2018

Game On

A few weeks ago we had a delightful meal at On Dining when Chef Philippe Orrico presented a few seasonal game dishes in the prime of the game season. I was at the same restaurant only a couple of weeks before for their Sunday brunch, but it did feel a bit different being here in the evening with the office buildings and the neon lights in the city as backdrop in a clear but slightly chilly night.

The 6-course dinner was based on a special menu designed by Chef Philippe. And to start, we began with a trio of bite-sized amuse-bouche, followed by our first course of caviar served with sea urchin, lobster broth jelly and picked king crab meat. Well this is a combination one couldn’t go wrong with, with loads of umami flavors putting inside a small tin filled with decadent ingredients (even with gold flakes on top to show forth)

We then had a pair of seafood appetizer courses. The thin scallop carpaccio was served slightly warm (perfectly appropriate for the cooler weather), served with a dash of citrus juice and topped with gold flakes and white truffles. Well, the bling bling may be a bit over the top but the truffles were fine, giving the dish an extra dimension of aroma. The next course of black cod was great too – baked and torched with miso glaze on top, and underneath, diced daikon, shiitake mushrooms and langoustine bouillon. It was rich and hearty.

Then came the game main courses. The wild fallow deer tenderloin did look like beef but has a more tender texture and richer flavor. It was paired with the creamy mushroom risotto, wine-poached pear and the classic grand veneur sauce. And next was Chef Philippe’s signature Le Lievre a la Royale. Preparation of the traditional dish was time-consuming and required complicated steps in the kitchen, and the taste was memorable. The hare meat and giblets (came to the restaurant as one whole animal) was slow-cooked for extended period of time and served In ballotine form, ganished with a rich sauce mixed with chestnuts that almost reminded me of somewhat dark chocolate flavor. On the side was a bowl of spatzle mixed with meat, grapes and foie gras. That to me was the classic flavor of the season.

After such rich main courses, we caught a breather with a simple dessert, with a quenelle of chestnut yuzu mousse with passion fruit Chantilly and mandarin jelly on the side, followed by cheeses and petit fours. Surprised their signature Comte was not available but the aged Mimolette was just as good.

(Dinner was by invitation and more pictures are at my Flickr album page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/g4gary/albums/72157704435532474)

When? November 15 2018
Where? On Dining Kitchen & Lounge, Level 28-29, 18 On Lan Street, Central, Hong Kong
Menu Highlights? Le Lievre a la Royale - Hare a la Royale, Spatzle, Foie Gras, Grapes, Chestnuts
Drinks? Champagne Nicolas Deneux Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru NV

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