Saturday, April 23, 2022

Laidback Lunch on Level 101

It certainly was a beautiful day to be up and about eating at 101 levels above the ground at Radical Chic – with the kind of early summer weather reminding me of Bossa Nova tunes for some reasons. I missed the gorgeous sunset at my last dinner here a few months ago but I was more than compensated with the gorgeous day time view this time at the table overseeing the Hong Kong Island skyline at the back and West Kowloon in front. 

The 6-course “Radical” Degustation menu (one that’s more leaning on contemporary style of cooking) may seem a bit too long for lunch but since I took the rest of the day off and as COVID dinner plan was still in place, I certainly didn’t mind sitting through a 3-hour lunch with such lovely view (and company). 

A “small apple” was served as our amuse bouche which was actually foie gras with buckwheat “soil” on the side followed by the lovely warm bread basket with the pieces of focaccia being my favorite. First course was a cute one with a few pieces of Sicilian gambero rosso slightly cured and served with pea puree, lemon jelly and espuma, and squid ink dressed like a clown face – I got picture to show forth. It was refreshing, mildly flavored with good texture. We moved on with a similar theme of bright and refreshing tastes (and colors) with “Torta de Insalata”. On top of the cheesy puff pastry tart were shallots, onions and slices of blood oranges. Once cut and served in individual slices, sauce made of 36-month-aged Comte was poured on the side for the extra cheesy taste. Recently I was in the mood of cooking with oranges (see my previous posts) so I was happy to add this beautifully plated course as another orange dish I have tasted. 

The next course served as a palate cleanser of sorts. A single piece of Tortello was filled with Brittany lobster mousse and served with tomato consommé. The consommé could be deceivingly mild (because it’s almost completely clear) but it’s so rich in flavor it’s almost like eating the whole ripe tomato. And I love the subtle umami coming from the lobster filling too. The risotto course was with salmon, with the pieces of fatty king salmon fillet (loin and belly cut) cooked sous vide and served with the creamy risotto cooked with fish broth. The touch of lemon gel on the side brought an interesting touch of salivating acidity to this rich dish. 

Main course was beef – A5 wagyu tenderloin to be exact, gently seared and served with tuono almond sauce, morel mushrooms, meat jus and ramsons-infused oil on the side (piece of grape on top too for a touch of sweetness) The sauces were interesting – with the raw almond giving this a creamy texture without being overbearing, and the ramsons oil giving the dish a touch of green and complemented well with the rustic flavor of morels. 

Taking the rest of the day off meant I could enjoy a few sips. Started with a glass of bubbly, rich with a good toasty notes. And one couldn't go wrong with an well-aged Brunello. Full-bodied, some earthy notes on the palate, ripe black berries and rounded tannins.

The dessert of “Chocolate Textures” may be a bit of cliché – with the “deconstructed” chocolate cake a la Albert Adria served with raspberry sorbet but the flavor did match with the early summer mood of uplifting and cheerful. And three hour flew by just like that with a wonderful, easy-going meal. 

(Lunch was By Invitation)

When? April 6 2022
Where? Radical Chic, Shop B1, Level 101, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd W, Tsimshatsui
Menu Highlights? Shallot and Orange Tart, 36 Months Comte Fondue
Champagne Sanger "Generosite Noire" Blanc de Noirs NV
2010 La Colmbina Brunello di Montalcino DOCG

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