Tempura Kaiseki

Just as Yakitori Hirako which we visited was no ordinary Yakitori place, Tenmasa that we went the next day was no ordinary Tempura place either. 

Admittedly we picked this place only after we couldn’t get a table at our favorite tempura spot in town, but then we were happy to try something new that has a decent review rating and a Michelin star to show forth. The restaurant was a little out of the way, not far away from Daikanyama but a good 10 minutes car ride from the Shibuya Crossings. Place was cozy with dark wood décor and a semi-oval kitchen counter that can seat up to 10 with Chef Masa Ashiki working in the center.  

Three different menus were offered with more of less the same number of courses but different ingredients – it’s more like a Kaiseki than with just tempura dishes. We went with the Kagayaki Course which was the middle one in terms of price point with 8 courses all together. We began with a simple bowl of scallops, salmon roes and sea urchin mixed with turnip pickles and shimeji mushrooms – something refreshing to start, and quickly followed by a comforting bowl of Shinjo (crab “quenelles”) served in a clear dashi in a lidded lacquer bowl. A pair of sashimi dishes were then served, first the Meguro-zuke (soy-marinated tuna) served with horseradish, aonori (green seaweed) and tonburi (kochia seed) for a hint of crunchiness, then the Sawara Spanish Mackerel served with shungiku sauce, myoga and red yuzu kosho on the side for a spicy kick. 

Hassun course was presented in a well-plated tray with five different bite-sized dishes. I like the broiled Anago served in a large cup with stewed ebi-imo and carrot drizzled in light soy sauce and the Shiokara (fermented squid guts), both with very distinct flavor.

We stated with a light and refreshing bottle from Kochi Prefecture before moving to a more delicate one for our tempura courses. Seven types were served altogether and were based on seasonal selection. First was the shrimp and quickly followed by its head – batter was on the thick side but it’s done perfectly with the nice crispiness. All that was needed was a gently dab of fine powdery salt. Kisu (whiting) came in decent size and it was delicious too. Makomodake (bamboo shoot) and gingko were the two seasonal vegetable courses and both were very good – I especially enjoyed the nice crunchy of the young bamboo shoots. At the end it was the signature uni (sea urchins), wrapped in a nori sheet, battered and fried. It’s of the perfect size and I love the contrast in textures and flavors. 

The soft Goma Tofu was served as a palate cleanser of sorts before we were asked for our preference for the final savory courses, both of us went for tendon with the shrimp and vegetable patty served on top of a bowl of steamed rice. For dessert, it’s a lovely bowl of persimmon and pear with sherbet, jelly and pomegranate. 

More photos here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/g4gary/albums/72177720313637105

When? November 26 2023
Where? Tenmasa, 16-13 Kamimeguro 3-chome, Meguro, Tokyo, Japan
天雅 東京都目黒区上目黒3-16-13 キューブＭ B1F
Menu Highlights? All the tempura dishes
Drinks?
酔鯨 吟麗 純米吟醸 生酒 - 高知県 酔鯨酒造
楯野川 純米大吟醸 清流 - 山形県 楯の川酒造
Web: (Instagram) www.instagram.com/tenmasa_nakameguro