“When was the last time you were in Isola?” Our host G posed this question to everyone at the table as we came over to the restaurant for dinner recently. And surprisingly, I was actually the only one among the four of us who remembered the days before the restaurant’s relocation from a higher floor at ifc mall to their current spot. A mystery of how this ever popular dining and drinking spot among nearby office staff remained under the radar for so long.
But to be honest, I only had sketchy memory of my dining experience at this place so I am glad to return for a more serious tasting with some of their signature dishes. It’s my first visit since they moved, taking over the spot used to be a casual chained restaurant (and before that,
St Betty). The décor and set up was decent and comfortable – bar in the front with the spacious dining room at the back with the large window along one side with the breath-taking harbor view - certainly one of their biggest selling points.
I think G was trying to kill us by giving us an 8-course tasting menu served in regular portion. There’s no particular regional specialty at Isola but their food menu drew on classic dishes from various parts of Italy, sometimes with a contemporary touch. Just like the mushroom soup served cappuccino style, with the rich porcini cream soup topped with foam and served in a coffee cup rather than a proper bowl. A bit too hot to sip, but I like the lighter texture.
The scallops were done classic style, with a pair from Hokkaido seared and served with cauliflower puree on the side. Then there was the vitello tonnato, unmistakably Piedmontese with thinly sliced veal topped with tuna sauce. The veal was perfectly done and I like the espuma-like texture of the sauce, rather than something dense and heavy like many I have tried.
A pair of pasta dish was next. I love the ravioli done carbonara style, with the thin pasta sheet wrapped with soft egg inside and served with a simple butter sauce with summer truffles. The lobster linguine is the house specialty usually served with the whole lobster shell on the side with picked meat mixed with linguine and finished with a spicy tomato sauce. What we had was an abbreviated version – but with every bit of the great flavor.
Two main courses were served family-style, starting with the baked sea bass in a salt and herbs crust, then the grilled T-bone “Australian Black Angus” done alla Florentine. I like the fish more this time, with delicate flavor and moist texture, having baked whole in a salt crust and carefully removed at our table.
Just think we were finally done with too much food, they brought in a huge platter and began the dessert “show”, with scores of ingredients put onto it by their staff carefully and finished with different sauces, condiments and dry ice for the effect. Other than the theatrics, they were pretty delicious, especially the soft meringues – I guess by then I was too stuffed to enjoy the pieces of tiramisu or chocolate cakes.
Decent all around. I guess that's the key to success for a high street spot such as this and they nailed it.
When? May 21 2019
Where? Isola
Menu Highlights? Vitello Tonnato
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