Star Under Shade

One can't ask for a better day to eat al fresco in Hong Kong than a sunny afternoon in January when it's cool enough that you wouldn't end up sweating all over and warm enough you wouldn't need a down jacket to brave the chilly monsoon. And we have found the best spot for it in the middle of the city at Aaharn, the Thai restaurant in Tai Kwun that has just been bestowed with its first Michelin star a month ago.

There are no lack of choices in town when it came to Thai food, and I guess that's why we haven't gotten around to visit this 2-year-old restaurant helmed by Chef David Thompson, whose former restaurant Nahm in Bangkok was considered Asia's best once upon a time. The place was stylishly set up above the popular bar inside the Tai Kwun complex, the former Central Police Station converted into a "shopping mall plus museum". The dimly-lit, spacious indoor dining area was well-decorated, featuring bold color scheme and contemporary artwork on the wall. But we - like most customers at the restaurant on that day - opted for outdoor seating, at the large terrace right outside with a row of tables and cushioned chairs. Nice and cool under the shade of the big mango tree on the ground right beneath.

A set lunch menu was available during the day, with separate choices for starters, mains and desserts. And to start, a bite-sized Ma hor was served as amuse-bouche, with the caramelized ground pork served on top of a pineapple wedge. It's the exact same dish served at Nahm at our last visit and I love the sweet and spicy flavor. Both of us went for the scallop as our first course. The steamed Hokkaido scallop was cooked with red curry paste covered on top with Thai basil garnish. The scallop was probably slightly overcooked but I like the delicate texture plus the hint of spiciness from the curry.

My main course of crispy perch was essentially a sweet and sour fish done with fancy plating, with the fish fillet sauteed skin-on in hot oil and finished with the sauce seasoned with vinegar, tamarind, chili and basil. The bold flavor worked well with the steamed rice served on the side, cooked with mild coconut milk for the hint of aroma with the long-grain rice cooked firm. The massaman curry chicken was the second main course we ordered. It's mild in spiciness but rich in flavor - probably worked even better with the rice. Also remarkable was the soup that's served alongside with bits of roast duck, young coconuts and shiitake mushroom provided an intense yet refreshing flavor.

The classic kanom tom was served as my dessert course. The sticky rice dumpling filled with palm sugar syrup and shredded coconut on top didn't hold back on sweetness with great flavor. Thought everything was well executed in a relaxed setup - what a hidden gem and we definitely will be back.

When? January 4 2020
Where? Aaharn, 1/F Armoury Building, Tai Kwun Centre, 10 Hollywood Rd, Central
Menu Highlights? Crispy Perch with Tamarind, Chili and Holy Basil
Web: www.aaharn.hk