Our recent dinner at Hansik Goo came a few months after they moved to their new location in Sheung Wan, and around a month after we ate with their chef Steve at a hole-in-a-wall place somewhere else with our common friends. The makeover was evident at the new spot with a larger dining space, higher ceiling with the same traits of minimalist, homestyle decor.
The menu went through quite some changes since our first visit in December last year (just before we went into lockdown) with more elaborate cooking and presentation. Every course (often described in anglicized Korean) also came with detailed description and context written at the back of the menu. The 9-course tasting menu began with a series of small starters served in quick succession. The abalone juk, the Korean style congee said to warm one's stomach to start the meal, was hearty with a hint of sesame nuttiness. The combination of abalone (served in thin slices) and a small dollop of caviar on top added to the "sense of ceremony" (and umami) to this traditional dish.
The "Hweh" course consists of a few raw items served with traditional Korean condiments on a square platter. I love the thread of squid with nice bouncy texture and a kick from the chogochujang sauce and the thin slices of Hanwoo (Korean beef) carpaccio wrapped with julienned pear. The prawn dish was the off-menu item Steve sent over for us, with a pair of local Kuruma prawns marinated with soy sauce. Similar to the traditional Gejang prepared with raw crabs, I actually prefer this with nicer texture using prawns instead with a well-balanced flavor.
More seafood courses were served. Prawns were roughly chopped (and minced) and wrapped in cabbage and served with white bean soup (Cabbage Ssam). Black-throat sea perch (Geum-tae in Korean) was steamed with vegetables stuffed underneath and served with Korean mustard sauce and zucchini "namul". The slightly acidic sauce balanced well with the fatty fish.
Samrye Risotto, restaurant's re-interpretation of the classic Korean ginseng chicken soup, had a makeover from the original version that we had last year (now they called it 2.0). Rather than a soupy course, it's now served with the rice infused with the ginseng soup instead. The chicken roulade served on the side is now prepared with mushroom mousse and finished with a ginseng-truffle glaze on top. I personally liked this version better with a richer flavor.
The tasting menu came with a number of add-on courses available as option, and almost everyone opted for the Korean Fried Chicken. One probably can't find a better version elsewhere in town, with the perfect batter and glaze, and deep-fried a la minute and served immediately. I bet if they offer this as standalone course and it will be a best-seller.
Our final savory course was presented in an elaborate manner, with Hanwoo prepared two ways, first as minced patty (ddeokgalbi) and second as thick slices of grilled striploin and on the side were a series of banchan a bowl of mussel rice with raddish namul. I prefer the more straight-forward preparation of grilled beef but the patty was interesting - think burger patty with teriyaki sauce except it's done Korean style. And the team threw in an extra course of Sundubu Jigae, the Korean spicy tofu stew with cod milt, prawn and crab roes. I love it with just the right kick and the creamy cod milt worked well with the hearty soup.
The last 3 courses were desserts, with persimmon sorbet, makgeolli ice-cream and then petit fours with fermented pineapples and black sesame dasik. My favorite was the makgeolli ice-cream served with black garlic meringue and cheese snow for the clean, refreshing flavor.
Went with a single bottle of Riesling from their menu. A bit more off-dry than I expected to go with food, but nothing wrong otherwise with pretty aromatic nose, and ripe apple and stone-fruits on the palate.
Overall I like the transformation done to this fine-dining Korean place and kudos to Chef Steve and his Hansik Goo 2.0 team!
When? November 13 2021
Where? Hansik Goo, 1/F, The Wellington, 198 Wellington Street, Sheung Wan
Menu Highlights? Samrye Risotto 2.0
Drink? 2020 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett
Web: www.hansikgoo.hk
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