There were certainly something special about the food we had that night. And the drink too. And not in particular order.
With hot summer slowly giving way to the (equally hot) autumn we returned to Ryota Kappou Modern to check out the seasonal menu by Chef Ryota Kanesawa, again, courtesy of our friend C who organized this at this favorite restaurant of his. Last time after an already great line-up of bottles he organized for us we challenged him to show us more, and he did, this time with more jaw-dropping ones. Yes, that’s plural right there.
We followed the similar order of dishes like we did before but almost all the dishes were new to me. The “Hassun” course was made with four different small dishes served as a platter. Didn’t know what to expect with the shark’s fin tempura but I love the combination of textures and the perfectly done crispy batter. The seasonal ankimo was firm and rich, and I like the hint of citrus too. The Kaburamushi sounded more like a winter dish with grated turnip (kabu) boiled with dashi until thickened and served with the delicate amadai steamed with sake and the seasonal Hanasakigani. The soup base was clear but flavorful and I love the colorful plating too with the seasonal colors presented in a lacquer bowl.
Not such much of a surprise in the sashimi course. The shimeji was probably the fattiest I have ever tasted, along with ika (squid), botan ebi (humpback shrimp), and chutoro and otoro (fatty tuna) served with gratged horseradish and a slice of sudachi on the side. Then there’s the karasumi, only slightly toasted with thin slices of daikon, with remarkable hint of sweetness. Then of course, it’s their signature “Bowl of Wonders” with wagyu and uni served on top of a small dab of rice… the ultimate combo of umami flavor.
Moving on was the fish course, this time it was a piece of akamutsu (sea perch) deep-fried with a crispy batter on top with roasted eggplant underneath, followed by “Ryota style sukiyaki”, with few slices of Kyoto wagyu beef served with classic sukiyaki ingredients (konjac and roasted fu) in a sweet Warishita sauce sizzling in an earthenware casserole. Finishing off was two starchy courses, first the somen in soup with slices of aka-awabi, then the rice cooked in traditional donabe (earthenware rice pot) with Kawasu (barracuda) fillet and smoked ikura (salmon roes). And for dessert, the “melon cream soda” with melon granita and then Warabimochi coated with kinako powder.
The food was no doubt impressive and delivered at the usual high standard by Chef Ryota-san, but it’s not wrong to say that most of us were slightly distracted by the many bottles presented and enjoyed through the evening - both in terms of the caliber and also the amount of alcohol we consumed.
Leading off was the Kokuryu Shizuku daiginjo, rich but clean with a hint of fruitiness. I am a fan of Kokuryu so that's a good place to start. Of course, the legendary Juyondai Ryusen was the star of the night (and any night for that matter), open up beautifully with the unmistakable banana and fruity aroma, borderline sweet and with such roundness and complexity. We had an outstanding Daishichi Myoka Rangyoku in our last outing and C doubled down with two bottles this time, made a few years apart. I thought the extra aging from the older bottle brought about a richer aroma and rounded palate, and it went well with the sukiyaki course that we had. I felt almost guilty to say we had yet another bottle towards the end, this time the Zankyo Super 7 with one of the lowest rice milling ratio of 7% giving this a milder but more delicate taste and smoothness.
This is surreal, and certainly the most spectacular meal of this year.
When? September 26 2022
Where? Ryota Kappou Modern, Level 21, 18 On Lan Street, Central
Menu Highlights? Yamaguchi Tilefish Kaburamushi
Drinks?
Kokuryu “Shizuku” Daiginjo, Kokuryo Shuzo, Fukui Prefecture (2021)
黒龍 しずく⼤吟醸 - 福井県黒龍酒造
Juyondai Ryusen Junmai Daiginjo - Takagi Shuzo, Yamagata Prefecture (2021)
十四代 龍泉 純米大吟醸 –山形県 高木酒造
Daishichi Myoka Rangyoku Grande Cuvee - Daishichi Sake Brewery, Fukoshima Prefecture (Bottled 2021)
大七妙花闌曲グランド・キュヴェ生酛純米大吟釀雫原酒 － 福島県大七酒造
Daishichi Myoka Rangyoku - Daishichi Sake Brewery, Fukoshima Prefecture (2018)
大七妙花闌曲生酛純米大吟釀雫原酒 － 福島県大七酒造
Zankyo Super 7 Junmai Daiginjo - Niizawa Jozoten, Miyagi Prefecture (2021)
残響 Super 7 超特選 純米大吟醸 - 宮城県新澤醸造店
1999 Chateau La Mondotte, St-Emilion Grand Cru
2005 Chateau d’Yquem “Y” Ygrec, Bordeaux
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