First, Sushi

A decent Tabelog rating, open on Sundays and proximity to where I stayed... Sushi Kiyoshi (鮨 きよし) at Ginza's 7-chome fit the bill when I was looking for a place to eat on my first day in Tokyo during the work trip in September. Most importantly, it’s the place I managed to get a booking for the only free evening I got.

Chef Sakai Kiyoshi opened this restaurant a few years ago after decades at the legendary Ginza Kyubey. The layout was typical of any other high-end sushi-ya in the neighborhood, with the long, stone-paved corridor leading to the dining room with the open kitchen and an L-shaped counter that can seat 8.

Only Chef's Omakase menu was served in the evening, with appetizers followed by nigiri sushi courses – all together 24 courses give or take we were told. A glass of amakaze was served as palate cleanser, followed by marinated ikura (salmon roes) and cooked iwashi (sardine) served on small plates. A pair of seasonal katsuo (skipjack tuna) slices were served, taken from different part of the fish with a dab of Japanese yellow mustard on top, and after that, madai (red seabream) steamed with sake and kombu and dashi. I love the delicate texture.

Sakai-san is not the only sushi chef that paid special attention to the rice, or shari as it’s professionally called, but this is the first time I was given a tasting of the rice and seasoning in different varieties before they were served in the sushi courses that came after. My favorite was the yukihokata rice from Gunma Prefecture and then he started with the lighter vinegar (the white vinegar), then progressed with rose and red with more intensity as the evening progressed. 

Starting with nodoguro (blackthroat seaperch), aji (Spanish mackerel) and ika (cuttlefish), followed by the trio of tuna (chutoro, otoro and akami-zuke). The kohada (gizzard shad) was not the fattiest but I love the combination with the heavily seasoned shari. Oyster confit and Kuruma Ebi were both the signature courses at the restaurant (I still remembered the jumping prawns served at Kyubey back in the days). They were both excellent. Here the piece of giant prawn was marinated in a large glass before being deshelled and served.

I did find it a bit strange with the course of just the vinegared rice served with a hollandaise-like sauce, risotto style. And then back to more sushi courses with the outstanding piece of murasaki uni (purple sea urchin) served nigiri style. Towards the end it was hamaguri (giant clam), anago done 2-ways, a small glass of chilled pumpkin soup, kanpyo-maki and egg castella cake, then the apple jelly dessert paired with cold camellia tea from Goto Islands in Nagasaki Prefecture. Yup, it's a pretty long dinner indeed. 

I started off with a Junmai Daiginjo and seeing the lady sitting next to me went with a non-alcoholic selection, I asked for the same and was served a fine glass of hojicha brewed using gyokuro from Fukuoka. Lightly roasted with a slight hint of smokiness and well-balanced with a sweet aroma.

When? September 10 2023
Where?
Sushi Kiyoshi, 9th Floor, Ginza 7-3-8, Chuo-ku, Tokyo, Japan
鮨 きよし 東京都中央区銀座7-3-8 Ginza 7th Place 9F-A
Menu Highlights? Kuruma Ebi
Drinks? 
Mizubasho “Sui” Junmai Daiginjo – Nagai Shuzo, Gunma Prefecture
水芭蕉 純米大吟醸 翠 - 群馬県 永井酒造
Royal Blue Tea Gyokuro Hojicha “Kaho”
玉露焙じ茶香焙
Web: (Tabelog) https://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130101/13233807/