Miraculous Meal

“I am coming to Tokyo in a few days’ time. Do you think you can squeeze me a spot to eat at your restaurant?” I know it’s a big ask when I threw that question to Chef Daniel, and at the end he did just that, which I think is no less than a miracle and made my work trip extra fruitful on personal front. (and it really was a work trip) 

There’s a sense of tranquility and exclusiveness as I maneuvered my way through the complex Tokyo Station and into Four Seasons Marunouchi located just steps away with a low-profile entrance and less than 60 rooms inside a commercial building. Chef Daniel’s restaurant, Sezanne, is on the 7th Floor, sharing the floor with another casual bistro-style restaurant (Maison Marounochi) which technically is also under his belt. I have been joking to my friends that I am probably about the last among us to have visited the restaurant, so I have seen the picture of it like a thousand times in all my friends’ social media feed, but it’s still surreal to walk through the door into the beautiful dining room with the inviting warm color theme, a large marble counter at the center and further back, a window with the kitchen right behind. 

I haven’t seen Dan since he moved to Tokyo in 2020 but this time was the third time I met him in a month – first in Macau in August, then a chance encounter in Hong Kong just a few days back and finally this. A glass of Krug helped me settled quickly after a long day’s work and that’s when the amuse-bouche of gougere with aged Comte arrived at the table. The warm bite burst with flavor was oh so comforting. The tartlet with two types of prawns – Shiro-ebi from Toyama and Botan-ebi from Hokkaido – completed with celery, sudachi zest and mild lime juice was similar to the one I had when Chef Dan made a guest appearance in Macau and this one was just as good, if not better. 

I continued with a few seafood courses – combining the best of Japanese ingredients with Chef Dan’s wizardry touch. Love the oyster “soup” – which was in fact Akkeshi oyster served with champagne sauce and caviar underneath – I love the hit of acidity followed by rich and deep umami flavor in the warm and creamy sauce. The marinated cuttlefish with olives and anchovies was a perfect summer appetizer dish with rich but refreshing flavor. Then there was the kristal caviar with avocado and sudachi and the tartlet with rice and Murasaki uni, both of which now becoming signature dishes and I had enjoyed tremendously the last time. I felt it’s like reuniting with a long lost friend when the hot malted barley sourdough arrived – how much I miss you buddy – and the Brittany butter just made it to a next level. 

The whole tomato tart was shown to me before carved into serving portion. Then I got to see the layers inside the tart with zucchini, basil and ripe tomatoes and the crispy buttery crust underneath and the cheesy burrata sauce drizzled on top. “Gary always wanted more sauce,” Chef Dan dropped by and checked on me as the next dish of Hokkaido Kinki fish was presented, with the fillet of fish gently cooked on the pan with the crispy delicate skin, baby potatoes cooked tender and the “bouillabaisse” sauce with Oita saffron velvety and rich with the acidity working perfectly with the fatty fish caught near Abashiri in Hokkaido. He obviously remembered me licking my plate clean last time when I had this dish so this time he made sure they left me more sauce in a separate mini pan. The seasonal matsutake mushroom and gingko nuts were showed to me en papillotte before being brought back to the kitchen for the final plating, with both the mushroom and gingko diced and served with the creamy mushroom sauce topped with a piece of baked pastry. 

A small cup of ikura (salmon roes) was served as some soft of palate cleanser, with bits of cucumbers and horseradish cream underneath. I love the main course of Shiranuka Venison done au-poivre with girolle mushrooms and vegetables underneath. The rich sauce on the side was masterful, rich with a hint of sweetness. The Meyer lemon granita served on a lemon skin with lemon zest and thyme on top was adorable, and so was the sweet figs served with coconut coulis and dried fig leaf powder underneath – one has to admire and envy all the ingredients Chef Dan managed to source from Japan (those figs from Aichi Prefecture were just out of the world great) And finishing up were the trio of petit fours sent from the kitchen. 

I had an amazing flight of wines served throughout the evening – hard to say which one was my favorite, whether that be the good old Krug, that white Burgundy, or the pair of d’Yquem that the somm poured me after I jokingly told Chef Dan these days I only drink wines owned by my ultimate boss. Overall, an unforgettable night with a miraculous meal, an unique dining experience, and a great time to catch up and witness quite an evolution in culinary direction with someone we always hold dear to our hearts. 

Not the best photos I got this time, but here are the rest: https://www.flickr.com/photos/g4gary/albums/72177720311402688/

When? September 13 2023
Where? Sezanne, Four Seasons Marunochi, Pacific Century Place Marunouchi, 1-11-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-Ku, Tokyo Japan
Menu Highlights? Shiranuka Venison with Girolle Mushrooms
Drinks? 
Champagne Krug Grande Cuvee 171eme Edition Brut
2021 Chataau de Plaisance L’Anjou Blanc
2021 Domaine Jean-Claude Ramonet Puligny-Montrachet
2019 O Grand Air Riesling Grand Cru Wineck-Schlossberg
2019 Chateau d’Yquem “Y” Ygrec
2020 Yves Cuilleron Condrieu La Petite Cote
2020 Domaine Camin Larredy Jurancon Sec
2018 Chateau Malescot St Exupery Margaux
1991 Chateau d’Yquem
Web: www.sezanne.tokyo