My first business upon returning from a weeklong trip in October was to drop by Mono for the collaboration event between chefs Ricardo and Juan Luis Martinez of Merito from Lima (as part of the “Unplugged Series” at the restaurant now in its 7th edition)
It’s always a delight to sit at the long counter right in front of the open kitchen at Mono, even better when I got the seat right in the middle with two talented chefs at work. Both chefs shared a similar background, both Venezuelan who made their names in a foreign country (Richardo in France and then Hong Kong obviously, and Juan Luis in Peru), and both were known to bring native Latin American ingredients with their own creative renditions.
We were served the dinner menu though my visit was during day-time. We started with crab meat and dry potato served as finger sandwich with thin crackers with tamatillo powder on top with a nice hint of acidity. Sea bream tartare was presented on top of mamey chip dusted with beetroot powder – inspired by Latin American ceviche but given an Asian touch with sesame oil and black garlic. Mamey left a bit of grassy and fruity flavor in the bite for balance. The “Stuffed Brioche” looked like a donut ball, with avocado leaf powder on top and lobster inside, seasoned with a touch of cadamon, I believe, for a nice kick of flavor.
The menu focused on seafood in the top half of the menu, then a few meat main dishes. I love the pair of seafood dishes served with bright colors – first scallops with a salsa verde-like green sauce made of Sanky cactus with a sharp acidity flavor, then it’s one of Ricardo’s signature dish, with carabinero served with oca and Huacatay herbs. The langoustine taco was nice, but I was more impressed with the soup that was served at the same time, prepared with the head of the langoustines, Nopal and Okta. I like its rustic, exotic, rich umami taste.
The Pitahaya, or dragonfruit, course was another interesting one, with the thick piece of dragonfruit from local farm braised as if it’s meat with Peruvian chili and served with along with the black mole prepared table-side with much fanfare. Monkfish was perfectly cooked, served with “Amazonian curry” – I obviously lost track of what went into the sauce but it was amazing. We did move on with some non-seafood dishes, including the pork belly and venison. Then there’s the dessert. Featuring some of the unique Latin American ingredients including Lucuma, Macambo and Maca root. It’s almost like we were given a masterclass of all these unfamiliar produce from the other side of the world, and needless to say we were properly stuffed by the end of this 3 hour epic lunch.
When? October 18 2023
Where? Mono, Level 5, 18 On Lan Street, Central, Hong Kong
Menu Highlights? Brittany Monkfish, Amazonian Curry
Drinks?
Champagne Billecart-Salmon Brut Blanc de Blancs NV
Hakurakusei Junmai Daiginjo 伯樂星 純米大吟釀 - 宮城縣 新澤釀造店
2020 Domaine Justin Girardin Satenay Les Terrasses de Bievaux
2017 Intipalka Valle del Sol Syrah, Ica Valley, Peru
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