White Truffle Treat

I knew we were onto something quite special when I saw a large white truffle sitting in a jar on our table as I walked in to Castellana the other night. I visited the restaurant earlier this year but happy to be back, this time with a few friends and during the prized white truffle season. 

There’s no lack of bona fide Italian restaurant in town, but none like Castellana which focuses on Northern Italian cuisine only, especially dishes and produce from Piedmont region. The “Around Northern Italy” was the theme of our degustation menu, with five courses being prepared by Chef Romeo Morelli, who’s passionate in bringing his own interpretation of his hometown cuisine to us. 

The first course of River Prawn Tartare made a good start, with quenelles of finely chopped river prawns marinated with Amalfi lemon juice and zest, and garnish with morel mushrooms in different forms and finished with a cold clarified broth. Rich umami with an overall balanced flavor profile and a pleasing presentation. One couldn’t get more rustic Piedmontese than the next course of artichoke, with the whole heart deep-fried in oil and served with traditional Bagna Cauda sauce underneath. Such a comforting winter dish with the classic pairing of the warm dipping sauce rich in anchovy and garlic taste with vegetables, this case the seasonal artichoke.

Then of course, was the main reason why we were here tonight – the Alba White Truffle. We may be approaching the last stretch of the truffle season this year, but from what I have tried so far, this year the quality has been great, and the piece that was served was huge and full of aroma as the glass jar was lifted open in front of us. This time, it’s paired with a stuffed pasta course, with homemade “Panzerotti” Ravioli filled with melted Castelmagno cheese and a simple butter sauce, with generous shavings of white truffles on top. It’s as good as it gets with the truffles going well with the creamy and pungent cheese. The pasta looks more like a giant version of Agnolotti and was perfectly made and cooked with nice eggy flavor in the dough. 

For main course, Chef Romeo prepared one of his signature dish, the Guinea Fowl, roasted in pan, carved and prepared two ways with jus reduction. The leg was deboned and stuffed with Piedmont hazelnuts, lardo and sage then roasted. The wing meat was chopped, battered, and deep-fried into croquette. On the side was long string peas served with orange gel just to lighten up a little. Dessert was tiramisu, again, served homestyle with generous portion of whipped mascarpone with cocao powder on top and homemade biscuit underneath. 

We didn’t get to finish the whole piece of truffle on our table (after all it’s around 200g big) but we certainly had our good share of this seasonal gem and a great time savoring and celebrating the wonderful food from Northern Italy. 

When? December 14 2023
Where? Castellana, 1/F Club Lusitano Building, 16 Ice House Street, Hong Kong
Menu Highlights? Homemade “Panzerotti” Ravioli with ROP Castelmagno cheese and Alba white truffles
Drinks?
Champagne Lallier R.016 Brut
2017 Ridolfi Brunello di Montalcino
Web: www.castellanahongkong.com