It's true we often come to Shanghai Fraternity Association for
their hairy crab dishes during the fall season, but there are more to that in this private dining club which has become one of the places we visit regularly throughout the year - sometimes it's for many of their simple, home-style Shanghainese dishes which I crave for every now and then, and sometimes for something more elaborate.
Our latest visit was just a few weeks ago when we organized a dinner with some friends in one of their private rooms with a mix of both. We started with a series of appetizers served on small plates. Tea-smoked eggs is the dish we order almost every single time - they may not have the richest flavor but with the best texture of just set egg white and the slightly gluey yolk.
Eels were done two ways – the crispy one was brought to us straight from the kitchen and was super crunchy with the sweet glaze on top, and the stewed one (nicknamed tiger tails) took only the back of the yellow eels, cut into thick strips, steamed and served with sweet soy sauce. Similar to “Shan Hu” (鱔糊) but with a softer, slimier texture and it’s always one of my favorite dishes here. Completing the lineup was the jelly fish served chilled with scallion oil and the vegetarian bean curd rolls (aka vegetarian goose), deep-fried with shiitake mushrooms filling.
Then it’s the soup, double-boiled with chicken, ham and other ingredient which I dare not name. With many restaurants stopped having this in their regular menu I think their version is one of the best in town, with rich flavor thanks to the ham and bones put in and the long cooking. Not something I would want to have on a regular basis but it’s okay to let loose every now and then.
River shrimps were another of my favorite here – and this time, we had it half and half. First was the more traditional, sautéed version done with the aromatic longjing tea leaves, and the second was the more decadent one, dipped in salted egg yolk batter and deep-fried. Won’t help with my cholesterol level but again, it’s okay for occasional consumption I suppose.
One could smell the distinct aroma the moment the smoked pomfret was brought into the room. Came in generous portion with the whole fish weight almost 1.5 catty (~1kg), sautéed in hot oil, smoked and then cut into smaller portions. Skin was slightly crispy and the meat was flaky, and both with good flavor from the marinate and the smoke.
Duck was the only disappointing dish this time - done tea-smoked but the meat was on the dry side and lacked flavor. Never a fan - I always prefer the one stuffed and braised (Eight Treasure style) if given a choice. We went for the lighter version of the "lion's head" stew with two large pork meatballs served in a clear broth and cabbage. Soft with almost melt in your mouth texture but didn't leave a trace of the fatty meat mouthfeel. And we finished with a few more dishes, including sauteed sweet peas with ham, xiaolongbao (steamed soup dumplings) and the sweet lotus puff with red bean paste.
Went along with a few different bottles with progressing richness. The Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc made using 100% Roussanne grapes was the surprise one. Deep golden color, full-bodied and rich, almost buttery with orange zest aroma, minerals with good acidity - went perfectly well with the smoked pomfret, or even the soup. Not the kind of bottle I would usually pick up myself so I was glad I gotta have a sip of this one. The Corton we brought fared well, medium-bodied with some leather and red fruits, and silky tannins - we brought it for the lion's head stew and they matched each other fine.
When? May 30 2020
Where? Shanghai Fraternity Association, Level 1-3, South China Building, 1 Wyndham Street, Central
Menu Highlights? The Soup that cannot be named
Drinks?
Champagne Taittinger Brut Reserve NV
2016 Chateau de Beaucastel Roussanne Vielles Vignes AOC Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc
2011 Hospice de Beaune Corton Grand Cru Cuvee Charlotte Dumay (bottled by Faiveley)
2009 Mitolo "Savitar" Shiraz McLaren Vale, Australia
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