He called this his Private Dinner Series #6, with the theme being “Spectrum”, with six different courses each with a color theme and inspired by the cooking style of a particular region. We began with “白” (White), which was a dish combining ceviche and white gazpacho, with mandarin-cured langoustine and scallops, cubes of star anise jelly, salmon roes and lychees served in a reduced almond cream infused with Sichuan peppercorn oil and finished with bits of finger limes, drops of mint oil, prawn oil and garnishes. Loaded with many ingredients each with different flavor, but somehow they worked together beautifully, with the rich umami taste of the shellfish in the forefront accented by all the other punchy flavor at the background.
We made a sharp turn into something more intense in the next course of “Verde”. Thick slices of broccoli “steak” were completely smothered with house-made abodo sauce loaded with heat (from a few kinds of chilies) and spices and on the side, it was the Mole Verde with avocado, pistachio, basil, burnt garlic and onions for the creamy texture and contrasting flavor. This is one vegan dish that I approve for sure.
The “Rouge” course featured some of the best summer fruits – cherries and plums, with pan-seared foie gras topped with “duck granola”. Love the colorful presentation served on a white porcelain dish, and you couldn’t go wrong with such combination of ingredients especially during the summer done in classic French style. We moved back to an Asian-inspired course next, with the gigantic raviolo stuffed with egg yolk and langoustine and dressed with bits of salted yolk, ikura and a richly aromatic laksa velouté which was definitely the highlight of this “Jingga” course. Chef Leonard confessed to us that the Hong Kong humidity gave him a hard time in getting the pasta dough in the right condition to form the ravioli but he did a decent enough job.
The main course moved away from the single color theme but rather, a mix of “summer colors”. Iberico pork loin with the perfect fat balance and bouncy texture was slow-cooked and finished on the pan for the slightly firm crust with the reduced meat jus demi-glace and on the side was a medley of summer vegetables – fava beans, charred baby corns, radishes, tomatoes and roasted eggplant-basil puree. Unbelievable that they managed to deliver this for the eight of us with only a team of three working in a home kitchen with just standard equipment, and the execution was perfect in every aspects.
Our dessert, “Nero”, was a repeat of what we had last time with the unique combination of vanilla icecream mixed with chestnuts, hazelnuts, shaved Parmaggiano and topped with finely grated Australian winter truffles. Parmaggiano was not the common cheese one would use on a sweet course but somehow the savory, mineral hint plus the nutty flavor combined well with those of the nuts and slightly sweet ice-cream taste, and OMG the aromatic truffles and the cream went hand in hand perfectly too. Time and time again this is one memorable dessert with all my favorite ingredients.
Bravo for another well-executed feast full of surprises yet again. I am sure we all enjoyed a rare night out.
When? August 6 2020
Where? Leonard's Kitchen
Menu Highlights? Verde - Broccoli, Adobo, Mole Verde, Smoked Avocado
Drinks?
Champagne Dhondt-Grellet Premier Cru "Les Terres Fines" Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut
2017 Cantina Terlano Pinot Bianco "Vorberg" Riserva Alto Adige, Italy (en magnum)
2016 Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin Chablis Premier Cru "Vaillons"
Anne et Jean-Francois Ganevat Vin de France Poulprix NV, Jura, France
2010 Lethbridge "Mietta" Pinot Noir, Victoria, Australia
1997 Lokoya "Mount Veeder" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
1996 Shafer Vineyards Hillside Select Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
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