Keeping the Tradition

We managed to keep our “tradition” of eating at Caprice during this past Lunar New Year long weekend. We have been eating out much less these days so this did feel like an even more special occasion.

Normally we would go for the Carte Blanche menu letting the chefs sort out the food for us, but this time we wanted something “light” and just went for the items from the regular lunch menu plus the wine pairing option. Still, chef Suveg and Victor (Tatler’s newly crowned Best Sommelier in Hong Kong) managed to wow us with a few surprises along the way. 

The crustacean jelly was always a good way to start (so was the champagne being poured as we sat down). Clean flavor filled with umami and contrasted well with the seasonal black truffles, finely shaved and carefully layered on top. It’s quickly followed by another chilled appetizer, with Fine de Claire oyster, green apply jelly underneath and topped with celeriac and Kristal caviar. A tad richer and loaded with the sea mineral flavor. They matched well with the Loire Chenin Blanc poured for us, nice, balanced and clean with some pears and apple. 

I couldn’t recall trying the crustacean bisque and crab royal dish before and it was lovely. The soft, silky and warm custard mixed with picked crab meat was served with the rich bisque on top with garnishes. Think Japanese chawanmushi but slightly richer and creamier. It was comforting. The fish quenelles were classic, served in generous portion with more than generous caviar on top, and the sauce was unbeatable, with complex flavor from shellfish and a dash of cream and champagne to add on the texture and acidity. 

I picked lamb as my main course, something I rarely did as lamb was normally not my meat of choice. But it was perfectly done with the piece of Axuria milk-fed lamb saddle, tender and juicy with parsnip “ribbon” wrapped around, served with jus reduction with a hint of sweetness for balance. Sangiovese was an interesting choice, but it stood up well with moderate tannins and plenty of black fruits.

Mont Blanc seems to be the no-brainer for desserts this time of the year plus my love for chestnut, and before that, I managed to steal a bite or two from CYC’s cheese platter. The Fourme d’Ambert was my favorite this time, having washed in sauternes, and perfectly matched with the best sauternes of an excellent vintage (1998 Chateau d’Yquem) Nice golden color, almost viscous circling in the mouth with honeysuckle, preserved lemon, zesty and nice orange peel. 

More photos: https://www.flickr.com/photos/g4gary/albums/72177720297092508

When? February 3 2022
Where? Caprice at Four Seasons Hong Kong, Level 6, 8 Finance Street, Central, Hong Kong
Menu Highlights? Axuria Lamb Saddle, Parnsip Cooked with Saffron and Clementine, Natural Jus
Drinks?
Champagne Vouette & Sorbee Fidele R17 (en Magnum)
2019 Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups Montlouis sur Loire Les Hauts de Husseau
2018 Chateau-Grillet Cotes du Rhone
2017 Podere Poggio Scalette 'Il Carbonaione' Alta Valle della Greve IGT
1998 Chateau d’Yquem Sauternes
Web: www.fourseasons.com/hongkong/dining/restaurants/caprice