Three in Three

It certainly felt like déjà vu when a few of us had lunch “together” at The Chairman across multiple tables – we did this last year because of COVID lockdown, and this time again. And credits to the restaurant for being accommodative and flexible despite the circumstances. And surprisingly, it’s our third visit to the restaurant in as many months - we were just extremely lucky getting a table to eat.

An unfortunate mix-up meant we worked out the menu on the spot after we settled down. There’s no bad dishes here so all’s good at the end. Sea Snails in chili oil is common in just about every seafood restaurant in town but this is just in another level, with the sauce with just the right bit of spiciness with a touch of Huadiao yellow wine and housemade XO sauce. Beef with aged mandarin peel was another new dish we had this time, with the beef brisket slow-cooked to achieve the tenderness with the distinct flavor of the mandarin peel. Of course, one wouldn’t go wrong with the Char Siu here – with the fatty cut served in thick chunks just the way I like it, with the irresistible smoky flavor. 

Went for 3 main courses this time – both repeats from what we had before and both outstanding. The flower crab was a tad bit smaller than we used to have but we had the double portion, so that meant double portion of claws and the sauces underneath the rice noodles. We had the fish head with fermented chilies less than a month ago at the restaurant and it was so good that we must order it again. This one (from a giant garoupa) was extra big and got plenty of meat and flavor in every bite. The Roast Goose was on the fatty side, roasted on open fire for the smoky taste and the crispy skin that felt like it melts in my mouth – all of us were fighting for the few bits of neck which we thought was the best. 

The steamed sticky rice gave us the double dose of crab meat with nice umami flavor as we finished up. It was enjoyable, but that didn’t stop us from ordering the stir-fried beef noodles on top of it. Simple dish as it may be, it’s perfectly cooked with plenty of “wok hei”. 

Easy on wines this time – 2 whites, 3 reds, all French. Like the 2011 Chateau Leoville Poyferre with the Char Siu or even the fish head and fermented chilies – the body and good fruity notes just stood well for it, and I like the Blanc de Lynch-Bages with the goose, the bright, zesty taste just contrasted well with the smoky meat. 

More photos: https://www.flickr.com/photos/g4gary/albums/72177720297541559

When? March 5 2022
Where? The Chairman, 18 Kau U Fong, Central
Menu Highlights? Giant Garoupa Fish Head with Fermented Chilies
Drinks?
2009 Domaine Benjamin Leroux Meursault Les Narvaux
2016 Chateau Lynch-Bages Blanc de Lynch-Bages
2009 Domaine Benjamin Leroux Volnay Premier Cru Les Mitans
2010 Chateau Duhart-Milon Pauillac
2011 Chateau Leoville-Poyferre Saint Juilen
Web: www.thechairmangroup.com