We had to ask Chef Antimo at Estro for a favor to move up our dinner booking to fit missus’ travel schedule in June. We meant to return to the restaurant after our lunch late last year, but then one thing led to another we waited over 6 months to do so.
But we made it up by picking the longer one of the two tasting menu available during dinner service, wanting to try more of Chef Antimo’s signature dishes. Always lovely to see a full dining room when we arrived, but with the way tables were arranged, it never felt overly crowded. I also thought the menu presented with a QR code and the wine list on a tablet were kinda cute.
We started with a few nibbles while sipping on the aperitif of Spumante. The bits of smoked sardine served on a pillow-shaped semolina puff was cute, and so was the pastry roll with potato and bottarga. What looked like a tiny pasta dish was actually zucchini “ribbon” served with a creamy zucchin sauce, and then it’s a small glass of “minestrone”, a consommé bombed with vegetable flavor and made clear by clarification. The ceremonial bread service followed, with the trolley wheeled in with a choice of some well-chosen olive oil to go with the loaf of sourdough.
Our first course of “Homage to Salina” featured squid marinated and diced with a layer of caviar inside. On top was fennel pollen and capers, and underneath was the subtly aromatic almond milk. Love the complexity in flavor with everything mixed in a each bite. Second course was another refreshing seafood course, with plump mussels (from Hokkaido) stuffed with breadcrumbs, diced red prawns and herbs, put back in their own shells and steamed, and served with a yellow tomato sauce and infused olive oil (aglio e olio). A notch richer in flavor and I love the soft texture.
We moved on to a few pasta courses served in quick succession. The bottony (button-shaped ravioli) was burst with flavor from the vegetable jus filling combined with the sauteed honey peas underneath for the grassy, garden-like taste. The texture reminded me of the Shanghainese xiaolongbao with the soupy filling. The langoustine was cooked just right with a touch of spice, served with fettucine underneath, and last but not least, it’s the signature pappardelle ragu made with diced short ribs and the sauce made with Motorino onions slow cooked and reduced until it’s left with the deep sweet flavor.
Two main courses were served in this longer tasting menu. First was the seafood course with kinmedai (Japanese goldeneye snapper) pan-seared skin-down and served with vegetable “caponata” and olive compote on the side, and a smooth puttanesca sauce with rich bell pepper taste and bringing all the ingredients together.
I rarely chose lamb to be one of my courses voluntarily, but I felt I made the right choice this time with the Pyrenees baby lamb prepared with two different cuts and both perfectly prepared with the most tender texture, served with green asparagus and a combination of the thick cheese sabayon sauce, and the rich meat jus spooned on top.
The chocolate dessert was kinda cute, with chocolate done in various shapes and forms, but then my eyes were on the hazelnut gelato with caramel sauce on top, with the “Oh My God” creamiest texture and perfect flavor. Yes I had to have two - couldn't resist when I was asked whether I wanted an encore.
Happy to see a familiar face in the front of the house team, with Vivian (ex-Belon) taking care of us for the evening. I also liked her recommendation of the light Barbaresco, medium-bodied with nice red fruits and plum and some pencil shavings, solving my dilemma of wanting a single bottle of red to go with a seafood-focused menu.
When? June 10 2022
Where? Estro, Level 2, 1 Duddell Street, Central, Hong Kong
Menu Highlights? Bottoni honey peas mint, vegetable jus
Drinks?
Cantine Astroni Astro Campi Flegrei Falanghina Spumante Brut NV
2016 Giacosa Fratelli Barbaresco Basarin “Vigna Gianmate”
Web: www.estro.hk
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