Went back to Duddell's for the first time since they got a new head chef Kar-on Yip on board at the restaurant's invitation. Not a lot has changed in terms of interior and setting but Chef Yip did manage to bring on a few new dishes to this Michelin starred establishment sitting in a commercial building on Duddell's Street.
The appetizer course was presented with several items served on a large plate. The pair of char siu was interesting, one the classic version finished with honey glaze, the other with a "spicy sauce" with strong sichuan pepper taste for something different. Completing the platter was a piece of pan-fried freshwater eel, tofu sheet rolls soaked with rice wine lees and water bamboo shoots dusted with shrimp roes. All nicely done with some variations in texture and taste.
The double-boiled soup was superb, with a generous portion of fish maw inside cooked to perfect tenderness. The delicate egg custard steamed with 20-year Huadiao was filled with the amazing rice wine aroma, going along well with the piece of steamed star grouper fillet – and some gold flake garnish on top won’t hurt. I also enjoyed the braised stuffed sea cucumber served with sauteed leeks and the rich abalone sauce. The crunchy quinoa and the soft and tender sea cucumber formed a nice contrast in texture.
A classic Cantonese banquet style menu always came with some sort of chicken dish followed by rice and noodles, but Chef Yip combined two together in the form of crispy glutinous rice chicken, with the cooked glutinous rice stuffed in the chicken cavity and roasted. The skin was crispy and the rice took up all the meat jus from the roasting and was flavorful. Love their lineup for desserts too – first the soothing chrysanthemum soup with foxnuts and osmanthus, followed by the milk pudding with ginger syrup and a pair of bite-sized sweet snacks.
Went through three bottles throughout the evening. Like the South African Vin de Constance as I always do. Classy, good acidity-sweet balance with hint of an orange cake and ginger. I am pleased with this new Duddell's experience.
More photos here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/g4gary/albums/72177720300087032
When? June 14 2022
Where? Duddell's, Level 3, 1 Duddell Street, Central Hong Kong
Menu Highlights? Crispy Glutinous Rice Chicken
Drinks?
2018 La Crema Russian River Valley Chardonnay
2016 Girolamo Russo ‘a Rina Etna Rosso
2014 Klein Constantia Vin de Constance
Web: www.duddells.co
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